A Treasury Of… Minneapolis Fashion and Interior Design Blog

Any serious shopper has surely (sorta-seriously) imagined opening their own little retail spot. This week I was able to live the daydream through conversations with Minnesotan brothers Eric and Andrew Dayton, whose vibrant new clothing and accessories shop Askov Finlayson opened last month in a 130-year-old building the brothers have carefully converted into an elegant model of the non-Mega Mall.

Capping off a space that also includes the brothers’ buzzy but cozy eatery The Bachelor Farmer and underground watering hole Marvel Bar, the arrival of the Daytons’ compound of cool in the warehouse district of Minneapolis has officially turned the ever hipper ‘hood into our city’s own mini-Williamsburg.

Stocked with revered/revived heritage brands like Penfield and Wm J. Mills & Co., as well as up-and-coming labels like Salt Lake City-based Zuriik Shoes, Askov Finlayson takes timeless style and tips it playfully toward tomorrow.

Eric (above, right) and Andrew (left) were kind and candid enough to sit down and describe their exciting transformation from avid shoppers into savvy shop-owners with the opening of Askov Finlayson.

Where did the idea to open Askov Finlayson originate?
Eric: I worked for Target before business school and got a great retail training there. However, much like opening a restaurant, the idea of opening a store grew out of the opportunity to buy the (Marvel Rack) building and bring it back to life. With my brother as my partner on the project, we wanted to fill the space with businesses that aligned with our personal interests and also would work well together. We hoped that putting a restaurant, bar and shop all under one roof and then programming the second floor with events would create something of a clubhouse for the neighborhood.

How did you go about selecting the brands and products you’re stocking?
Andrew: Our focus has always been on quality of design and construction. It also has to be something that my brother and I both really like, which tends to narrow our search considerably.

I’m curious how your past and current experiences as shoppers, in Minneapolis and beyond, maybe influenced your decisions as new shop-owners.
Eric: There are a lot of great stores in the Twin Cities and we’ve become friends with many of the owners behind them. That said, there were a number of amazing brands that we admired and that were not being offered locally. We saw an opportunity to introduce those brands and add another point of view. We wanted to be complementary to the existing stores in town, not duplicative.

What’s been the best thing about opening your own shop?
Andrew: We get a great mix of customers coming through the store and I find myself spending much of my day interacting with interesting people. Our building is in such a vibrant neighborhood that what’s most exciting to me is simply being a part of it.

What product/products have been the biggest hit with the shoppers at your store?
Eric: People have been responding positively across the assortment, which is a huge relief to Andrew and me! It’s hard to identify a stand-out after only a few weeks, although I will admit that we drastically underestimated the appeal of Vilac balloon boats.

What insight have you gained from interacting with your customers so far?
Andrew: People respond to a perspective. I think that trying to appeal to everyone can ultimately make a store (or a bar or restaurant) less appealing. Even if someone doesn’t buy what we’re selling, they almost always appreciate that we’re taking a position. Fortunately, though, so far a lot of people are buying!

Speaking not as fashion business-owners, but just as dudes, what have you added to your wardrobes this season that you’re super keen on?
Eric: We have spent so much time and energy filling the store with what we believe is a great assortment of merchandise that our own closets haven’t been updated in quite some time. One exception is an awesome jacket that our friends at Epaulet designed in partnership with Vanson. We each got one (different colors of course).

What’s coming up still, this first year, for Askov Finlayson that you’re especially excited about?
Eric: I’m really excited to add local designers Annie Larson and Kenton Sorenson this fall, and then brands like Quoddy and Vilebrequin in the spring. We also have some collaborations with artists in the works, and those are a lot of fun.

I’ve been wearing this approximate outfit almost every day built around three recent finds.

1) Pointer Brand Chore Coat that the Buckshot Sonny’s dudes hooked me up with last month. For a manual labor-like coat, I tend to actually feel a little more snazzed-up than usual when I slip this coat on and sorta snap up its collar. It’s maybe the extra crispy crunch of the coat’s duck canvas.

2) Imogene + Willie speckled cream jeans in the brand’s higher-rise and therefore more mid-60s feeling fit they call The Willie. They read bright ‘n white on screen but in person they’re more of a heather-ed oatmeal, giving the jeans a heartier, more hardware-store kind of feel I’m quite keen on.

3) And last, but prob’ly not least, a fresh pair of Red Wing 2126 boots. Apparently the deal with this style is that Red Wing stopped manufacturing them “officially” except for once a year, selling the small lot of them down around Texas where they’re especially popular. The 2126s come boxed with round, golden, workman laces, but I threaded in flat, brown ones off Amazon to make ‘em a little more mysterious and less bulldozer-driver-like.

So 1, 2, 3 and I’m pretty much good to go each morning. I haven’t found a shirt, even in the shadows of my closet, that refuses to work well with the rest of this outfit.

Batch three of the Fall Wardrobe Resolutions – the most international aesthetes yet!

Fashion Fan #7: Vadim K.

Claim To Fame: Taught me how to order cool clothes from Japan using proxies. Plus he’s Russian!

Resolutions:
1) Take more chances with clothes – be less safe. Even if that means dressing in the dark now and then.

2) Get a perfect grey suit. Wait – no…Get two perfect grey suits.

3) Spend less – save more. Check myself into the rehab for shoe addicts. Right after I get that pair of those perfect white Common Projects.

About the image: No matter what I enjoy seeing on people, in lookbooks and on runway, as far as my own closet – I always get inspired by somewhat times past. Therefore lads from The Specials, Mr Hedi Slimane (here – most American I’ve ever seen him) and unknown to me japanese gentleman, shot by Mr Scott Schuman about a year ago – all of these guys define what I try to see in the mirror when I dress in the morning. Now whether I succeed or not – thats a different topic.

Fashion Fan #8: Saucy

Claim to Fame: The Australian, acidic diarist behind Cigaratte Jeans. Surely you remember when I first introduced her to you.

“I know a lot of people don’t like resolutions because they make you feel like it’s added pressure to just trying to live your everyday goddamn life, but I like the idea of setting them and not calling them something zen like “milestone achievements” or “personal goals.” The fact that William asked me to do a mid-season resolution makes me even happier as now I am just not limited to the end of year epic-ness of December 31st. Seasonal goals seem much more manageable and won’t result in me screaming apologies at my external hard drive for not having any new work to load onto it.

Resolutions:
1) Somehow obtain and wear this cape.

I am not normally a huge fan of capes, I don’t like a lot of hanging, draping, potentially irritating the shit out of me fabric in my arm waving area, however this one is kind of the shit. Right? I mean, it’s like you could be some super human crime fighting sexy genius in this cape.

2) Learn how to grow lavender without killing it.

In case you are unaware, I live in the other hemisphere to most of you, which means Spring is springing all over the place and it makes me want to get my hands into some earth and strut around in a large floppy hat singing the virtues of home planting. However, despite being raised by essentially a Plant Jesus, I have had very little luck at successfully growing this delightful specimen. Fingers crossed.

3) Find a replacement for the Swedish Hasbeens I wanted that are now DISCONTINUED.

I have been pining after a pair of size 10 Swedish Hasbeens in the peep toe super high style in mustard (what a mouthful) since last christmas and about midway through this year discovered they were discontinued in the colour. Why is mustard such an unpopular colour? I have started a mission to find a replacement pair, and one that does not cost the $280 that the SH’s would have cost me. I am thinking this pair from Wittner might do, but am wondering if they will just make my canoe feet look like hooves? Either way I am kind of digging the image of myself climbing a mountain and singing about lonely highland goats.

Fashion Fan #9: Matt Fox

Claim To Fame: Really fine and really dandy Shopkeeper of the FineAndDandy shop.

Resolutions:
1) Wear more hats. I have a terrific collection of hats: fedoras, pork pies, newsboys, ivys. Many of them are vintage and some of them belonged to my grandfather. And yet I wear hats rather infrequently. The weather is getting cooler, and what better time to vow to wear more hats?

2) Be more adventurous in mixing patterns and colors. Theoretically I love mixing it up but many mornings I get caught in that “does this work or does this hideously clash” mentality. I need to take the risk and just go for it, even if I have doubts.

3) Edit my wardrobe. I am so fortunate to have a packed closet. But it’s too packed. I need to edit so my closet its more organized and I’m more able to locate the good stuff.

Batch two of Fall Fashion Resolutions from far-off internet friends. A three-pack of dudes doing it their way.

Fashion Fan #4: Damien Davis

Claim To Fame: Merging together grit with swank on his Junctioned blog.

Resolution: I would have to say my fall resolution is to embrace my inner prep. I’ve really been influenced by the 60s, 70s, and 80s style-wise and over time have tried to build a wardrobe based around those eras in menswear. The simple idea of well worn basics that grow, and mature as you do really appeal to me and my aesthetic.

Fashion Fan #5: Jeremiah Simmons

Claim To Fame: New kid on the blogging block as author of A Headlong Dive.

Resolution: My resolution this autumn is not to break in a new item, but re-unite with what I consider a couple of old friends… my Clark’s Wallabee and Desert Boot. Simply put, they go with anything and mine have gone everywhere. Though I see nothing wrong with desert boots being worn pretty much year round, something about the deep brown hues, worn suede uppers and dirty from wear crepe soles always evoke autumn. Inventive or fashion forward, they are not. What they are… timeless, understated and like an old friend… good to be with again. A man couldn’t ask for better footwear to walk with into fall.

Fashion Fan #6: Kwannam Chu

Claim To Fame: Jet-setting fashion photographer behind We Could Grow Up Together.

Resolutions:
1) To find a perfect fit benton sailor striped sweater, yuo know the ones with buttons on one side of the shoulders!
2) Actually to be less obsessed with getting a certain something fashionable just because a new season is coming.
3) We should all have new adventures and embark new journeys in lives as a new season approaches…

The wardrobe resolutions are just getting rolling. More to come, later this week!

The goods: All-American.
The guests: Mostly Minnesotan.

This coming Saturday, the pop-up-style men’s market makes its way to Minneapolis thanks to the mavens behind J.W. Hulme Co., Pierrepont Hicks, Red Wing Shoes, and Fox River Socks.

The Northern Grade Ad-Hoc Men’s Market will be invading an old, antique Barn Door/Church Pew store in NorthEast Minneapolis from noon until 7. I’ll be making an unscheduled appearance at some point in the afternoon, and I think I heard there’d be hot, straight-razor shaves offered on-site too. So needless to say, it’s THE place to be seen this weekend.

I best go on now, and grow out my scruff as quickly as possible. I refuse to clash with all the domestic plaids and leathers.

Since publishing an entry this past January with an early 70s photograph featuring Paul Newman, a dirt-bike, and a pair of biker-esque boots, I diligently hit internet auctions every morning for seven months to race down, at last, this “near mint” pair of 1960s Red Wing Irish Setter Sport boots.

They differ somewhat from my original inspiration, but they were just the style and color I figured would work with my day-to-day wardrobe. Now that I’ve finally got them, I’ve had to figure out to make them look cool with my pants when I’m not wearing slim 60s denim and sitting on a mini-motorcycle as Mr. Paul Newman was.

First I started with my pants crammed inside, but it takes time and it takes work to get them in there alright, and the resulting look is undefined and essentially dowdy.

Pulling the pants out streamlined the silhouette, but I can only think of electricians and dishwasher delivery men wearing them this way.

Neither in nor out was working, so I finally tried my pants the way I normally wear them, cuffed up twice. So far that gets me and my boots nearest that Newman photograph so I’ll roll along that way and see how often I end up wearing these biker-y boots I spent all year yearning for.

(Slimmer pants will probably help too. I’ve loved these canvas, khaki ones quite a bit, but half a year without fried chicken and chocolate milk and they’re just too big now.)

To be clear, the camo case from ACL & Co. that arrived yesterday debuted on-line way last fall. So today is the first real day of F/W 2010 arrivals for me and my wardrobe with the front door appearance of my Alex Carleton designed L.L. Bean Signature classic Bean Boot in its brand new colorway.

Granted, they’re not exactly a “transitional” item. In home by mid-August, I wouldn’t even think of wearing them until a golden leaf or two has fallen, sometime deep into chilly crisp October. Although I won’t be wearing them anytime soon, I’ll adore my black over brown Bean boots as they sit patiently in some un-cool corner ’til full-length pant-wearing-weather returns.

They’re  a little dull right out of the box, but a swift swipe with a leather furniture wipe and they do dew-up just great.

These days it seems like only the few, fawned over brands bother with building goods handsome and built to last. But once upon a time that wasn’t the case, and even at not-so-chic Sears you’d find scrumptious sweaters made by Ohio Knitting Mills and wingtips as deadly and dapper as the four in my collection.

The first pair wound up in my possession randomly, as part of a costume for a film, and a size and a half too large for me. But the second set were selected because they were the most striking of all the brown wingtips in my size at a local vintage shop.

The rest were sought out specifically on e-bay, and although the era and interior Sears emblem varies a bit from style to style, each pair is rock-solid outside and pillow soft inside. With vintage wingtips, if the leather is too pebbly or too dull the shoe reads as too dusty, dated and drab – but the Sears shoes are grained and glossed just perfectly so.

And, apropos for a Sears shoe, even a rare vintage one, I’ve never paid more than $19.99 for a pair. If Alden or Trickers wingtips elude you economically, go see the softer side of Sears.

The pretty-great goods don’t go live on the web ’til Monday, but a sneak peek at L.L. Bean Signature’s Fall 2010 Catalog reveals my new must-have boot.

The super-famous Bean Boot’s been pictured on all the bearded, East Coast hipsters over the past few years and thus many times I almost pulled the e-bay trigger on a vintage pair of mid navy blue or tall tan ones.

But I never ever did, which I’ve just today decided was a secret blessing. Because now I am free to guiltlessly bag these full grain, black-topped treasures for fall.

For five seconds I thought they’d be even better with black rubber bottoms to match the ebony leather. But then I reversed my position completely.

They’re just right just as they are!

PROLOGUE: ASOS

Initially reticent to re-board the boat shoe trend, I began last March with these shiny half loafers/half deck shoes from ASOS. I ended up wearing them all spring, but also wanted something a bit dressed down and de-glossed, although still black and not brown, to better avoid looking like my 6th grade suburban self.

When it comes to boat shoes I’m just not on board with visible branding, so that ruled out Sperry and its boastful little boat-stamps, as well as Parabot, Rogues Gallery, and Sebago and their fabric heel tag/flags.

CHAPTER 1: QUODDY

By early May, I thus wound up at  Quoddy and their custom-order options and accompanying six week waiting times. I figured I’d finally have my summer shoes by mid/late June which is technically when true summer begins, and as a bonus, I’d always suspected I had truncated but wide feet and so got to order my boat shoes not in a standard D width but E.

Nine-instead-of-six weeks after early May, the made-just-for-me Quoddy boat shoes washed up on my battered city shores.

I don’t know if it was their inherent style or the fact that I’d ordered them in the wider E size, but they seemed bizarrely shaped and bloated somehow, and the leather was awfully injured-looking, and struck me not so much as thin, taut shoe leather, but as puffy foamed rubber or something.

With $235 plus the weight of all my summer-shoe dreams weighing on them, it took me minutes instead of the usual hours/days to decide to return them for a refund.

Summer was half over and I was drowning in disappointment. Was it worth pinning my hopes on a pair of black rescue-boat shoes? Or should I just dead man’s float until next spring and start all over?

CHAPTER 2: LANDS END CANVAS

Having worn in my black and buffed ASOS pair to an even more beloved place in my heart during my wait for Quoddy, and then spotting Joel Goodsen on TV dicking around his driveway in a pair of short cut-offs and banal brown, white-soled boat shoes, I re-set my course.

With the visual search engine at ShopStyle.com as my skipper, I sailed toward Lands End’s new hipped-up Canvas branded line, and ordered their chestnut brown boat shoes marked down from $80 to $60 and waited but two days for them to arrive in two different sizes so I could pick which fit best.

When they did, I wasn’t sure if they looked cheap or not, but I was certain their laces didn’t match their leather well enough. Or that the two I had ordered were the right size, so I ordered a third, returned the smallest and the largest, and kept the median 8.5s.

But only as a back-up plan. (Why, after everything I already went through, would I make things easy for myself now?)

CHAPTER 3: QUODDY BY WAY OF O’CONNELLS

Because earlier this year I had seen Ryan at YouHaveBrokenTheInternet order a pair of the Quoddys – but in brown instead of black, and with a white sole, and from O’Connells in NY which gloriously didn’t require agonizing wait times (as long as you were down with the white soles, which, thanks to Risky Business, I now completely was). And I just wanted to be sure if Quoddy was or was not an option for me in my boat shoe adventures.

I considered forgoing the wider E style again for a less bloated-looking D, but, perhaps out of self-sabotage, I again went wide, and when the second summer Quoddys arrived the leather and laces did look a little bit better than my back-up Lands End pair, but with three lace holes instead of two, they seemed trickier to slip right into and out of. Which, to me, is the most super of the boat shoe’s powers.

And the real stickler to me about the brown Quoddys was: They looked handsome and heritage-y and very now. But what I’d ended up really wanting, I realized, was something really dated and Dad-ish. Duh.

And so back went the second Quoddys.

And out into the light of a summer Friday night went the Lands Ends.

EPILOGUE

Until, after wearing them out to dinner, I realized they were sadly too small and needed to be replaced by the exact same style, just a half/size larger.

I’m waiting for those shoes to arrive, but I have to say, wearing the Lands Ends for even an hour (not pictured) stretches and shines the leather in a way that instantly rids them of whatever “patina of cheap” I worried if they initially had, and the laces darken and soften and pair better with the leather of the shoes too.

For $80 (the Lands End sale just ended, natch), and after all my misadventures, they’re remarkably unremarkable. Just like the ones I had in 1988, and just like Joel’s.

Which means they’re way, way, way beyond perfect.

Do they warrant the longest Treasury entry in history? Probably not. But what in fashion is ever truly warranted?

I think the Chinese characters peeking out from under your pants cuffs on these Warrior shoes would be a lot more charming than some standard old swoosh. (Sorry Nike.)

I haven’t had much luck finding a white court shoe that I ever bother to wear much and am wondering if all that would change if I could pair my clothes to a pair of these Warriors.

I like almost everything about them – but am not so sure about their faux-bois soles…

Are they a deal breaker (ladies?)

It’s a definite kick…

taking care of your kicks…

when you’re oil cans of tin…

look as polished as this.